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Without a 2012 liner phase—or a whole lot of practice—mastering the perfect wing can be a challenge. Factor in a hooded eye shape, and achieving a flawless flick that doesn’t curve up, become disjointed, or look a little off kilter is made that much more difficult. If you know, you know. Everyone is entitled to the confidence-inducing power a wing imbues, so we’re breaking it down for hooded-kind.
While there’s a spectrum from slightly to very hooded, a hooded eye describes the eye shape that sees almost all lid space covered when your eyes are open. Rather than exposing the lid, the skin around your eyes folds over your crease, showing not much more than your lash line. They’re genetic and completely normal, but can also develop with age.
As this creates a fold at the outer corner of your eye, a wing drawn on while your eyes are closed can be warped by the movement of the skin into that fold. It’s not the worst thing in the world, but, with a little technique, can be fixed.
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If you’re a learner liner, hold the liquid for now. Instead, take a pencil or a shadow and angled brush, and, with your eyes open and relaxed, looking straight ahead into a mirror, in small strokes draw a line angled upward from the outer corner of your eye, towards the end of your brow. Stay quite light-handed here—it doesn’t have to be perfect. The length of the wing is up to you and your threshold for drama.
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Once you’re happy with the wing’s length, draw another line directly from the outermost tip of the line, horizontally to meet your crease. Continue that line across and onto your lash line. As your eyes will be open, and your crease folded, there will be a visible gap once you close your eyes.
Next, with your eye open, fill in the triangle that makes up your wing. Close your eye and line across your lash line, connecting your lash line to the base of your wing. You should have created a perfect-angled wing when your eyes are open, and a graphic batwing shape when your eyes are closed.
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Makeup artist and hooded-wing icon Katie Jane Hughes is all about making the batwing look intentional for pizazz between blinks, creating a confident ‘c’ shape or sharp angle where her wing meets her lid and lash line (you can find her step-by-step in her Instagram story highlights). This detail will add polish and power to your wing.
Once you’re happy with your wing, trace, fill and sharpen up edges with an opaque, long-wearing black liquid liner—our favourites include Stila’s Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner, and Shiseido’s MicroLiner Ink. If you’re in the mood to play, swap classic black with a coloured shadow or liner of your choice.